A number of years in the past, a blurb in a meals journal caught my eye. In it, a chef really helpful a unique-looking Japanese chef’s knife with big dimples on just one aspect of the blade, designed to maintain meals from sticking to it. Knives with little dimples are frequent, however these had been huge, and it made me marvel if the producer was on to one thing. That knife turned out to be as attention-grabbing because it seemed. Whereas it seems to be specialised gear, it might probably assist any degree of residence cook dinner. Whether or not you’re in search of your first good chef’s knife or your eternally blade, this Japanese gyuto matches the invoice.
You will have seen dimples (aka hollows or “kullens”) on different knives and puzzled whether or not they stored meals from sticking to them, however on Glestain’s blades they’re supersized, they usually work. The Glestain’s dimples—two rows of them on the gyuto, no much less—are excessive, like a neat double row of thumbprints on just one aspect of the blade. Lefties like me order theirs with the dimples on the left aspect and righties get them on the suitable. Lefties can use the right-handed model (and vice versa) and nonetheless adore it; all they’d lose is the non-stick impact of the dimples. I used to be excited to place it to an extended-use check.
Arduous and Sturdy
A gyuto is a sort of chef’s knife that has a form in between the curvy stomach of a German chef’s knife and the near-flat slicing fringe of the French type. There are two variations of Glestain’s gyutos, Skilled and Dwelling. I examined each and located them each to be pro-level gear. The foremost variations are that the Skilled has each a bigger tang (the metallic half that passes by the deal with) and a metallic plate on the butt of the knife. That makes it notably heavier–it feels a bit like a tank. Most residence cooks and line cooks will favor the Dwelling model for on a regular basis use.
Each variations characteristic a tough metal blade—59 on the Rockwell hardness scale—in a mixture that features chromium, carbon, molybdenum, and vanadium. That mixture creates a tough, skinny, and sturdy blade that resists rust and holds a imply edge. (For extra knife nerdery, try Chad Ward’s wonderful reference, An Edge within the Kitchen.) The Glestains are Japanese-made Western-style knives, high-end Japanese blades with a handles such as you’d discover on a conventional French or German knives. It’s fairly comfy and evenly balanced and can maintain you content as you plow by piles of produce.
{Photograph}: Joe Ray
Actually, although, we’re right here for these dimples. It is a “common” knife, so there is not any particular flick of the wrist to make the most of them. It simply took a minute to know what to anticipate and the way successfully they functioned.
The dimples are fairly deep and far wider than on different knives. I personal an outdated Mundial-brand slicer, and the Glestain’s dimples are a lot deeper and simply 3 times as vast. The true magic occurs when what you are slicing is wider than the dimples.
I bought chopping, actually fortunately so. Dimples or not, it is an attractive knife to work with. Dicing onions felt like I used to be doing it with a supremely good blade, not a magic one. For these used to the curvy stomach of a German-style chef’s knife, the flatter arc of the gyuto takes some getting used to. I cooked Moroccan hen stew from Vishwesh Bhatt’s cookbook, I Am From Right here, a favourite from 2022. It featured chopped dried figs, which didn’t stick an excessive amount of. I beloved the crunch-crunch-crunch feeling of chopping toasted pecans.
Pulling out the brand new Ottolenghi Check Kitchen: Further Good Issues cookbook, I made a daikon model of its kohlrabi tonnato recipe. The daikon was about two inches throughout. I began out by making quarter-inch-thick slices with each the Glestain and my santoku, a extra vegetable-focused Japanese knife. The slices lay down neatly subsequent to the Glestain, however once I switched to the santoku, they caught to it as they’d to nearly some other knife. I had related outcomes once I quartered and sliced the daikon.
